Superior red-eye effect removal/reduction with completely natural looking end resultįile tagging, rating and drag-and-drop to copy/move/re-arrange files.Rectangles, ovals and callout objects on images Image special effects: drop shadow, framing, bump map,.Image color effects: gray scale, sepia, negative,.Eleven re-sampling algorithms to choose from when resizing images.Powerful image editing tools: Resize/resample, rotate/flip, crop, sharpen/blur,Īdjust lighting/colors/curves/levels etc.Crystal-clear and customizable one-click.Image browser and viewer with a familiar Windows Explorer-like user interfaceīy Windows Imaging Component (WIC) codecs on.(CR2, CR3, CRW, NEF, NRW, PEF, RAF, RWL, MRW, ORF, SRW, X3F, ARW, SR2, SRF, PNG, PCX, PSD, EPS, TIFF, WMF, ICO, CUR and TGA) and popular digital camera RAW formats It supports all major graphic formats (BMP, JPEG, JPEG 2000, animated GIF, Image annotation, scanner support, histogram and much more. Other features include a high quality magnifier and a musical slideshow with 150+ transitional effects, as well as lossless JPEG transitions, drop shadow effects, Mouse touches one of the four edges of the screen. Its innovativeīut intuitive full-screen mode provides quick access to EXIF information, thumbnail browser and major functionalities via hidden toolbars that pop up when your Management, comparison, red-eye removal, emailing, resizing, cropping, It has a nice array of features that include image viewing, User-friendly image browser, converter andĮditor. Just the typical “has anybody else done this before” approach.FastStone Image Viewer is a fast, stable, DSC_4455), I wondered if someone else had come up with anything interesting. The Finder, the Houdahspot search app, and the EagleFiler app are my main organizational tools.Īnd finally, to answer your question, while I had some ideas of what I wanted to immediately know about a photo beyond its camera-assigned name (e.g. ![]() I prefer a small set of folders with meaningfully named files in them. Second, keeping metadata out of my filenames implies an index of some sort or a bunch of externally applied keywords and ratings (aka “tags”) that haven’t appealed to me the numerous times I’ve used them. And I was coming off a couple of years of using Lightroom and not wanting to be stuck in their catalog any longer. I’m curious, why is it you’re looking for this philosophy of naming images? What are you feeling like you’re missing?įirst, I’m not much of a photographer, so we’re talking about a low-volume workflow here. NeoFinder NeoFinder - Digital Asset Management Softwareĭiscover NoFinder, the Digital Asset Management tool for macOS and iOS. It is still in active development and the developer has since added more photo centric functionality (including migration tools from Media Pro). Once iView finally stopped working (it was 32 bit IIRC), I searched for a new cataloging app, I tried aquite a few, and eventually found NeoFinder, and ancient (version 1 released in May 1996!) Mac app that wasn’t perfect but did what I needed to do. The Photo Mechanic Catalog tool was legendary vaporware at this time. I was also using Photo Mechanic to ingest, edit (in the sense of selecting the best images and deleting the rest), and adding metadata (especially keywords). It was, IMHO, an excellent cataloging tool. Working with medium format film/sensors is another notch up and is even more demaning of the lenses required.Īgain, this is to the best of my knowledge and hopefully mostly correct.īack in the day I used iView / Expressions Media / Media Pro as it went from independent to Microsoft to Camera One to abandonware. You get a similar effect as you move from wide angle to telephoto, why a 200mm lens at f/2.8 is so beloved by wedding and fashion photographers. This makes it easier to create creamy, soft backgrounds with beautiful bokeh, but harder to get deep focus in macro photo, for instance. The outer parts of the lens cover an area that lies outside of the crop-sized sensor and also produces that zoomed-in effect of 1.6x or 1.5x depening on manufacturer.īecause larger sensors are physically larger and usually have significantly higher resolution, it is more sensitive to the “circle of confusion”. Using a lens constructed for a full-frame sensor on a crop-frame body gives you the effect you are describing where you are using the best part of the lens. This also has the effect of increasing the depth-of-field, making what appears in focus extend further on the Z-axis. “Stopping down” refers to using a smaller aperture, in order to let in less light. Well, I’m not confused, but I may be explaining myself poorly. ![]() ![]() If you stop-down a lens, using a smaller aperture, you are cropping off the outer parts of the lens where cheaper lens have more distortion/aberations. I think you are confusing crop factor with resolution and focus.
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